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Revealed: how a San Francisco navy lab became a hub for human radiation experiments

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Revealed: how a San Francisco navy lab became a hub for human radiation experiments


Exposed: The Human Radiation Experiments at Hunters Point is a special report by the San Francisco Public Press, an independent non-profit news organization focused on accountability, equity and the environment.

In September 1956, Cpl Eldridge Jones found himself atop a sunbaked roof at an old army camp about an hour outside San Francisco, shoveling radioactive dirt.

Too young for Korea and too old for Vietnam, Jones never saw combat. Instead, he served in the cold war, where the threats to his life were all American.

The previous year, Jones was one of thousands of US troops directly exposed to radiation during aboveground nuclear weapons tests in the Nevada desert.

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Now he was being exposed again, this time to lab-made “simulated nuclear fallout”, material that emitted some of the same ionizing radiation as the atomic bomb. The exercise at Camp Stoneman, near Pittsburg, California, was one of many in a years-long program conducted by a key military research facility, headquartered at a navy shipyard in a predominantly Black working-class neighborhood in San Francisco.

A review by the San Francisco Public Press of thousands of pages of government and academic records, as well as interviews with affected servicemen, sheds new light on the operations of the US Naval Radiological Defense Laboratory at San Francisco’s Hunters Point naval shipyard. A new series launched on Monday in collaboration with the Guardian reveals that between 1946 and 1963, lab scientists knowingly exposed at least 1,073 servicemen, dockworkers, lab employees and others to potentially harmful radiation through war games, decontamination tests and medical studies.

The analysis reveals the lab conducted at least 24 experiments that exposed humans to radiation, far more than past official reviews acknowledged. Safety reports also note dozens of accidents in which staff received doses in excess of federal health limits in effect at the time.

Researchers at the lab tracked the exposure of workers trying to clean ships irradiated by an atomic bomb test. Soldiers were ordered to crawl through fields of radioactive sand and soil. In clinical studies, radioactive substances were applied to forearms and hands, injected or administered by mouth. Top US civilian and military officials pre-approved all of this in writing, documents show.

The records indicate that researchers gained limited knowledge from this program, and that not everyone involved had their exposure monitored. There is also no sign the lab studied the long-term health effects on people used in the experiments or in surrounding communities, either during the lab’s heyday or after it closed in 1969.

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Radioactive samples were placed on forearms, where beta radiation could cause burns. Photograph: American Industrial Hygiene Association Journal

The navy’s San Francisco lab was a major cold war research facility with a unique focus on “radiological defense”, techniques developed to help the public survive and armed forces fight back in case of an atomic attack. It was one node in a nationwide network that encompassed universities, hospitals and national labs that had permission to handle dangerous radioactive material. As one of the first such institutions under the control of the Pentagon, it was among the military’s largest and most important research hubs.

In a sign of the era’s lax medical ethics and safety standards, lab directors advocated taking risks with human subjects without seeking informed consent or testing first on animals, according to the documents.

These shortcuts appear to have contravened the Nuremberg Code, a set of ethical guidelines established after the horrors of Nazi experiments in concentration camps. Top civilian and Pentagon officials debated these principles. While some at the Atomic Energy Commission advocated strict rules, they were not consistently applied.

Scientists later acknowledged they were ignorant of the long-term effects of their work.

“We were aware of the signs, the symptoms and the damage that would be caused” by high levels of radiation, William Siri, a prominent University of California, Berkeley, biophysicist who cooperated with the lab to set up at least one experiment involving human exposure, said in a 1980 oral history. “But down at the low end of the dose range, no one was sure, and unfortunately no one is sure even to this day as to whether there is a threshold and what the very low levels would do.”

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One scientist developed a keen interest in elite athletes, who he theorized would be most likely to survive a nuclear conflict. In 1955, he negotiated with the San Francisco 49ers to use football players as subjects in a medical study. Letters between the lab and the team show researchers had formulated a plan to study body composition by having the men drink water laced with tritium, an isotope of hydrogen, and receive injections of radioactive chromium-51. Many years later, Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory investigators failed to find contemporaneous records confirming the experiment proceeded as planned, though a lab employee claimed he had witnessed it.

‘Ethically fraught’

The lab’s work and decades of warship repair left the shipyard, which the navy vacated in 1974, one of the most polluted sites in the country. The Environmental Protection Agency deemed it a Superfund site in 1989.

Today, the 450-acre (182-hectare) parcel anchors the biggest real estate construction project in San Francisco since the 1906 earthquake. More than 10,000 housing units, hundreds of acres of parks and millions of square feet of commercial space are proposed.

Critics say the navy has long downplayed a possible link between the pollution and poor health outcomes in the surrounding Bayview-Hunters Point neighborhood, which became majority Black by the 1960s, a transformation powered by the lure of shipyard jobs. Critics say the failure of the military to make the area safe amounts to environmental racism.

Eldridge Jones served in the army’s 50th chemical platoon, participating in exercises that exposed him to radiation. He says his health issues may be related to research organized by the navy’s San Francisco laboratory. Photograph: Sharon Wickham/San Francisco Public Press

In the Pentagon’s response to detailed questions about the radiation lab’s research program and human exposure toll, navy spokesperson Lt Cdr Courtney Callaghan acknowledged the experiments as “a matter of historical record”, but declined to address their scientific merit or ethical significance.

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“The navy follows strict Department of Defense policies and responsibilities for the protection of human participants in DoD-supported programs and any research involving human subjects for testing of chemical or biological warfare agents is generally prohibited,” she said via email. She added: “The navy cannot speculate on possible internal deliberations or motivations of medical researchers more than 50 years ago.”

Despite enjoying access to vast resources, the lab produced little in the way of valuable research, according to scientists who worked there and outside scholars. “It was fantastic,” former lab researcher Stanton Cohn said in an oral history interview in 1982. “We could buy any piece of machinery or equipment, and you never had to justify it.” In the end, he noted: “We did a lot of field studies and got nothing to show for it.”

While routinely exposing humans in these “ethically fraught activities”, the lab often behaved like an institution in search of a purpose, said Daniel Hirsch, the retired director of the Program on Environmental and Nuclear Policy at the University of California, Santa Cruz, who has studied the shipyard in detail. Hirsch and other critics said the lab demonstrated a remarkable disregard for radiation’s hazards and a cavalier attitude toward human health, even by the permissive standards of the time.

people looking a a nuclear weapon test
Thousands of servicemen participated in nuclear weapons tests, including Operation Teapot in Nevada in 1955. Photograph: National Nuclear Security Administration’s Nevada site office

The 1955 opening of the lab’s “huge $8,000,000” bunkerlike headquarters building was front-page news that drew “some of the nation’s top civilian and military nuclear experts”, the San Francisco Examiner reported at the time. But today, the lab has been largely forgotten.

In the early 2000s, journalist Lisa Davis revealed the enormous quantities of radioactive material the navy and scientists left at the shipyard and recklessly dumped at sea. This report expands on her brief mention of the lab’s medical and occupational experiments exposing people.

While lab scientists did sometimes publish in scientific journals and lab imprints, the navy destroyed voluminous piles of original documents after the facility closed.

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Medical experiments on human subjects

Remaining files such as interagency memorandums, experiment proposals and technical papers indicate that human exposure was accepted up and down the chain of command, from Washington DC to the San Francisco docks, where as early as 1947 the navy knew that airborne plutonium was wafting off contaminated vessels.

The ships had been battered by atomic weapons tests at Bikini Atoll in the Pacific Ocean and then towed to San Francisco, where hundreds of civilian shipyard workers were exposed in a vain attempt to clean them.

The agenda then expanded to medical experiments on human subjects. Lab officials told the Pentagon in 1959 that they employed “minimal quantities of radioactive tracer material” in clinical studies, implying their techniques were safe, even though no one knew if this was true.

In the mid-1950s, the lab developed what it called synthetic fallout: dirt or mud laced with the highly radioactive but short-lived isotope lanthanum-140, meant to mimic the poisonous material that could drift over US communities after a nuclear explosion. The lab exposed hundreds of troops and civilian personnel to this hazard in field exercises at military bases on the east side of San Francisco Bay, in rural Alameda and Contra Costa counties.

Men in minimal protective gear clean a roof at Camp Stoneman in Contra Costa county in 1956. Photograph: Naval Radiological Defense Laboratory

The synthetic fallout’s radioactive ingredient could cause cell damage to internal organs if inhaled. Jones, the former army corporal, said troops in his unit sometimes worked without adequate protective equipment.

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“Nobody had to go up on to the roof, and nobody had to do all this stuff by hand,” he said. “There were better ways to have done it. These scientists, they want the result and they don’t care about the people who are doing it for them.”

Some study participants had radioactive dirt rubbed on their forearms to test the effectiveness of cleaning methods. Others were ordered to crawl on their bellies through fields covered in it, to simulate the doses soldiers would absorb while fighting in a fallout zone. In 1962, lab officials acknowledged that wind and rain carried the pollution away, potentially exposing unsuspecting members of the public.

After a team from the lab detonated bombs laced with isotopic tracer elements underwater in the summer of 1961 around San Clemente Island, near San Diego, state game wardens working with researchers caught a radioactive fish, indicating unintended and potentially widespread ecological consequences. They brushed aside the discovery by noting that fish are typically gutted and presumably made safe before being eaten.

Across a wide array of activities, lab documents describe participants as volunteers. But Jones disputed this. “In the military, they tell you what to do, and you do it,” he said, adding that if he declined or resisted, he risked discharge or imprisonment in the stockade.

“We had to work in areas with a great deal of radioactive fallout and no one ever gave us an opportunity to opt out,” said Ron Rossi, who served with Jones in the army’s 50th chemical platoon at the Nevada test site. “It never occurred to us to even ask – just did what we were told to do.” Rossi spoke with the San Francisco Public Press in 2021 and 2022; he died last year, at age 89.

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Studying responses to nuclear disasters was part of the mission of the Naval Radiological Defense Laboratory. In 1955, navy hospital corpsman HN Stolan demonstrated protective equipment and Geiger counters. Photograph: San Francisco Examiner photograph archive at the Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley

Later Pentagon admissions support the veterans’ accounts. “There is little doubt that members of intact military units, which were sent to test sites to perform missions commensurate with their organizational purpose, were not given the opportunity to volunteer,” wrote navy V Adm Robert Monroe, a former director of the Defense Nuclear Agency, one of the successors of the Manhattan Project, the top-secret second world war atomic bomb project, in 1979.

Hundreds of thousands of so-called atomic veterans were ordered to participate in Pacific island or stateside above-ground bomb tests, or served in Japan near Hiroshima or Nagasaki. The US government has, inconsistently, compensated many of them, as well as nuclear weapons workers. But many occupational or medical experiment participants have gone unrecognized despite clear signals they were in harm’s way.

In correspondence with superiors at the Atomic Energy Commission and the Pentagon, as well as in a journal article, scientists described the amount of absorbed radiation as relatively low. But since their detection equipment was crude and unreliable, these could easily be underestimations. At other times, scientists acknowledged grave risks, while permitting participants to receive exposures past their own suggested limits.

At least 33 times, the lab documented radiation doses “in excess of” evolving weekly, monthly or annual federal “maximum permissible exposure” limits, according to annual “radiological safety progress reports” from 1956, 1958, 1959 and 1960, obtained from the US Nuclear Regulatory Commission through a Freedom of Information Act request and from the Department of Energy’s Las Vegas archive.

No evidence could be found that federal civilian nuclear regulators or the lab’s military supervisors imposed any discipline for safety lapses that violated federal regulations.

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Hazards persist

The navy’s San Francisco lab was one of many research centers and hospitals across the country that exposed people to radiation and other hazards for scientific purposes. That makes it a demonstration of “the ways that people have been seen as disposable, to science or to the military”, said Lindsey Dillon, a University of California, Santa Cruz, assistant professor of sociology who is among a handful of academics familiar with the lab’s history.

“I do think it should shock and anger people,” she added. “They knew that radiation was not healthy.”

The navy has spent more than $1.3bn to remove toxic and radioactive material from the site. Cleanup is poised to stretch through the 2020s, thanks in part to a contractor fraud scandal: two supervisors at an environmental engineering firm hired by the navy to clean up the shipyard received prison sentences after pleading guilty in federal court to faking soil samples. Retesting and several lawsuits are ongoing.

Illustration: Reid Brown/San Francisco Public Press

Military officials say these problems are surmountable and their remediation efforts will pay off.

“The navy’s work at the former Hunters Point naval shipyard has been and is focused on identifying contamination and ensuring public health is protected during cleanup and into the future,” a spokesperson for the Naval Facilities Engineering Systems Command, the service’s office overseeing the shipyard cleanup, said in an email.

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The navy had been alerted to the radioactive pollution problem as early as 1984. Yet for decades, public health advocates and community activists said the navy misled neighbors about health risks, an assertion supported by a 2020 city-commissioned scientific panel from the University of California, San Francisco, and UC Berkeley.

Beginning in 2019, an ongoing biomonitoring survey led by Dr Ahimsa Porter Sumchai, a physician and neighborhood native whose father worked at the shipyard, has detected traces of radioactive elements and heavy metals in the urine of people who live and work nearby. Some of them are workers at a UCSF lab-animal complex on former navy property that once housed rats, mice and other creatures used in radiation experiments. They have filed workers’ compensation claims alleging that exposure to radioactive and toxic pollution from the shipyard made them sick.

Several elected officials who have enthusiastically backed the housing development, including former speaker of the House Nancy Pelosi, who represents San Francisco in Congress, and outgoing mayor London Breed, expressed concern about environmental exposure without specifically addressing the lab’s history of human experimentation.

In an email, Pelosi spokesperson Ian Krager called the shipyard “a neglected and contaminated neighbor to the Bayview-Hunters Point Community” and noted that the federal government had invested heavily in the cleanup.

a black and white map
The military built its leading radiation lab in Hunters Point after ships from Pacific atom bomb tests returned ‘hot’. Photograph: National Archives and Records Administration

He said Pelosi’s priorities were “fighting to ensure the health and safety of Bayview-Hunters Point residents; requiring a transparent cleanup process that involves the community; holding the fraudulent contractor accountable; and insisting the navy fulfill its responsibility to fully clean up the shipyard”.

Shamann Walton, who represents the Bayview and adjacent neighborhoods on the city’s board of supervisors, has called for the city to halt the development until all the pollution is gone. “We do have a say in determining whether or not any land is transferred to the city and county of San Francisco,” he said at a city hall hearing in September 2022. “Without a 100% cleanup, that land transfer does not take place.”

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The mayor’s office echoed these sentiments, but has not advocated pausing development. “The health and safety of San Francisco residents remain our highest priority,” a Breed spokesperson told the Public Press. “To this end, we remain committed to ensuring the navy’s remediation of the Hunters Point shipyard is thorough and transparent to the community.”

It may be impossible to know exactly what harm the radiation exposure caused. Many survivors believe it to be a slow killer. Arthur Ehrmantraut, who served with Jones in the 1950s, said many men in the 50th chemical platoon died young. Others developed illnesses long after leaving the service. “I know that many had severe health issues, that, as with myself, manifested after 50 years,” he said.

Jones, now 89, said he did not regret his army service. But he suspected reckless radiation exposure caused the illnesses and premature deaths of others in his platoon, and his own impaired blood flow and partial blindness.

Experts agree that during the cold war, safety was secondary to precious knowledge that might give the United States an advantage in a nuclear third world war.

“The US government was very, very interested in information about how radiation affects the human body, internally and externally,” said Bo Jacobs, a history professor at the Hiroshima Peace Institute in Japan and co-founder of the Global Hibakusha Project, which studies people around the world affected by radiation from nuclear weapons. As for how that information was obtained, he added, they didn’t much care: “They want data.”

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Additional reporting by Rebecca Bowe. Listen to episode 1 and episode 2 of her Exposed documentary podcast.

Funding for Exposed comes from the California Endowment, the Fund for Environmental Journalism, the Local Independent Online News Publishers Association and members of the San Francisco Public Press. Learn more at sfpublicpress.org/donate and sign up for email alerts from the San Francisco Public Press when new stories in this series are published in December



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San Francisco, CA

Why Vogue World Should Definitely Head to San Francisco Next

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Why Vogue World Should Definitely Head to San Francisco Next


Why Vogue World should definitely head to San Francisco next. The highs (Celine and Willy Chavarria) and lows (Kevin and Jayden Federline) of Paris Fashion Week Men’s. Angelina Jolie’s new film “Couture” reveals the real stories beyond the runway. And the new Tiffany & Co. store brings the California coast indoors.

Gavin Newsom and Anna Wintour at Vogue World: Hollywood 2025 at Paramount Studios on Oct. 26, 2025 in Los Angeles, Calif. Source: Getty

Why Vogue World Should Come to San Francisco

Vogue global editorial director Anna Wintour is eyeing California for another edition of Vogue World after the pop culture runway extravaganza was held at Paramount Studios in Hollywood in 2025. 

As reported by the San Francisco Chronicle and confirmed by Vogue, the fashion maven recently visited the Bay Area to scout locations for the annual event, which combines runway shows and performances, attracts celebrity attendees, and raises money for a different local charity each time. Vogue World debuted in 2022 in New York and has since been hosted in London, Paris and L.A., and will head to Milan in September.

If it comes to San Francisco next year, it would be a coda of sorts to this year’s Met Gala, which was not so affectionately dubbed the “Tech Gala” because of the deep-pocketed tech moguls and firms that underwrote the evening, including Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sánchez Bezos, Amazon, Meta, OpenAI, Snap and Shopify.

Certainly, the Bay Area is the cradle of today’s Gilded Age, but following the money is only part of why Vogue World: San Francisco is a genius idea.

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Apple Watch Hermes editions. Source: Getty
Apple Watch Hermes editions. Source: Getty

Sticking with tech, Cupertino-based Apple may be the most influential design brand of our time, having created the iPhone, which is in the hands and pockets of more than 1 billion people worldwide. Apple first intersected with fashion in a meaningful way with the debut of the Hermès Apple Watch in 2015. And tech’s love affair with fashion has only continued.

Just this week, Meta introduced photo- and video-capturing Meta Starfire Kylie Jenner Edition AI glasses, priced at $399, in an effort to leverage the beauty mogul’s influence over her 382 million social media followers and make smart glasses fashionable.

But San Francisco also deserves to host Vogue World on its analog laurels. Historically, it has been a hotbed of innovation and social change that has had an outsized influence on the democracy of fashion and what people wear every day.

Levi Strauss & Co. signature patches. Source: Getty
Levi Strauss & Co. signature patches. Source: Getty

Number one, it is the birthplace of Levi Strauss denim and the 501 jean, arguably the most recognizable and widely worn piece of branded clothing ever made.

The origin story goes like this: In 1853, Strauss, a Bavarian immigrant, opened a dry goods company in San Francisco. Recognizing the need for durable workwear during the height of the Gold Rush, he and tailor Jacob Davis combined copper rivet reinforcements with denim, leading to the first manufactured waist overalls in 1873. They were the precursor to what we now call blue jeans, an icon that has come to symbolize America around the world. It does not hurt Vogue World’s San Francisco prospects that the popular Mayor Daniel Lurie, whom Wintour met with, is a Levi Strauss heir.

The event could be a celebration of denim alone and still be a roaring success, with designers interpreting denim workwear from mass to luxury. (Perhaps this is why we have already seen so much denim on the spring 2027 runways … could Jonathan Anderson and Dolce & Gabbana know something we do not?)

Designer Zac Posen and Ejae, wearing a Gap Studio distressed denim gown, attend the 2025 CFDA Awards. Source: Getty
Designer Zac Posen and Ejae, wearing a Gap Studio distressed denim gown, attend the 2025 CFDA Awards. Source: Getty

Levi’s is not the only San Francisco American fashion success story, of course. There is also Gap, founded in 1969 by Donald and Doris Fisher. What started as a denim and vinyl records store evolved into a brand that transformed the way people dress for work, driving a generational shift to more casual attire that began in the 1990s, when Gap khakis and advertising campaigns became part of pop culture.

Gap also created the blueprint for modern lifestyle marketing with its peppy collaborations with entertainers, which have been rebooted under CEO Richard Dickson and Gap Studio designer Zac Posen, who have tapped Katseye, Young Miko, Gwyneth Paltrow and Apple Martin, among others. Gap is experiencing a renaissance, and Wintour was also spotted in San Francisco at Gap headquarters and with Posen.

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Also founded in San Francisco: The North Face in 1964. What began as a climbing gear store (the Grateful Dead played at the opening) became a global juggernaut thanks in no small part to the 1990s hip-hop community, which made outdoor apparel into streetwear, establishing it as a key foundation of the modern casual wardrobe.

Esprit was founded in San Francisco in 1969 by Doug and Susie Tompkins (who previously founded The North Face) and Jane Tise. The brand’s colorful, cheap-and-cheerful, California-aspirational clothing, John Casado–designed stencil-effect logo, and Oliviero Toscani–lensed campaigns starring real people — a novel idea at the time — helped define 1980s fashion for young people and remain a touchpoint for designers today.

Beyond influential brands are the region’s influential social movements which have been inspiring trends and designer mood boards for decades.

Janis Joplin posing for a portrait in San Francisco, United States circa 1967-1968. Source: Getty
Janis Joplin posing for a portrait in San Francisco, United States circa 1967-1968. Source: Getty

Just as Hollywood’s larger-than-life blonde bombshells and teenage rebels shaped the imaginations and wardrobes of countless people across the globe, so too did counterculture and activist leaders in the Bay Area in the 1950s and ’60s, from the bookish workwear of the Beats in North Beach to the tie-dye and fringe-loving hippies of Haight-Ashbury, the Black Panthers in Oakland whose leather jackets, berets and sunglasses became a uniform of resistance, and the ““Castro clone” look of the LGBTQ+ rights movement.

All of it and more would be a rich tapestry for a Vogue World runway. As the song goes: “If you’re going to San Francisco, be sure to wear some flowers in your hair.”

Jayden and Sean Preston Federline walk the runway during the Vetements Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 fashion show at Paris Fashion Week on June 26, 2026. Source: Getty
Jayden and Sean Preston Federline walk the runway during the Vetements Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 fashion show at Paris Fashion Week on June 26, 2026. Source: Getty

New Clothes, Old Tricks

During the hottest days on record in Paris, designers still managed to show some cool Spring 2027 clothes, with slim, if not skinny, jeans, lots of sheer suiting, styling wizardry and footwear brand collaborations galore, drawing an impressive celebrity turnout, for better or worse.

Another fashion week, another nepo baby on the runway. Or two. Jayden and Sean Preston Federline walked the Vetements runway show. What’s Vetements? Now you know, which is why luxury brands continue to turn to children of celebrities, even those whose stardom has dimmed.

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The brothers’ parents are pop star Britney Spears and her ex-husband Kevin Federline. “K-Fed,” for those who remember, is now living in Hawaii with a new wife and family. He works as a DJ and published a memoir last year, “You Thought You Knew.”

While some family connections bestow a brand halo of exclusivity, glamour and cultural relevance, this one left me rolling my eyes. I’m sure the Federline brothers are very nice, but fashion, is this all you’ve got? And to have them parading underwhelming clothes we’ve all seen before? It felt cheap.

Sharon Stone walks the runway of the Vetements Menswear Spring/Summer 2026-2027 show as part of Paris Fashion Week. Source: Getty
Sharon Stone walks the runway of the Vetements Menswear Spring/Summer 2026-2027 show as part of Paris Fashion Week. Source: Getty

The Federlines weren’t the only “famous” ones on the Vetements runway. Sharon Stone also walked the show, which I would argue was beneath her, given the company.

Dior Homme Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 show June 24, 2026 in Paris, France. Source: Getty
Dior Homme Menswear Spring/Summer 2027 show June 24, 2026 in Paris, France. Source: Getty

Dior’s Elevated Everyday 

Dior’s Jonathan Anderson dialed down experimentation to focus on the elevated everyday, including artfully distressed denim, what you might call pajama suits, and a Dior-ified version of fashion’s ubiquitous quarter-zip sweater among the highlights. Not one to resist jaunty neckwear, he also introduced a sparkly sailor tie.

Celine Menswear Spring/Summer 2027. Source: Celine
Celine Menswear Spring/Summer 2027. Source: Celine

Free-Styling

American designer Michael Rider continues to kill it at Celine, where he’s selling the idea of having fun styling your clothes.

This season’s mix had even more ease, including what I am sure will be a hotly anticipated Reebok sneaker collaboration. I loved the “Flashdance” sweatshirts with a customized feel, the perfectly proportioned jackets, and the offbeat hats, boots and beads. And I loved the show notes even more, which read like a manifesto for personal style: “Making do with a few great things. Customizing … panache. And being very unaware of having it.” More of that, please.

Willy Chavarria Spring/Summer 2027. Source: Willy Chavarria.
Willy Chavarria Spring/Summer 2027. Source: Willy Chavarria.

Hollywood Dreams

It may have been Men’s Fashion Week, but there was plenty of womenswear on the runway, too. Willy Chavarria has been working on expanding his women’s business for a while, and this collection really nailed it, with draped silk cocktail gowns, whimsical floral dresses, sexy slit skirts and sheer tops that should put him in the Hollywood dressing conversation in an even more meaningful way than before. Also coming soon: an Ugg collaboration.

Givenchy Spring/Summer 2027. Source: Givenchy
Givenchy Spring/Summer 2027. Source: Givenchy

Timmy, Is That You?

Sarah Burton held her first full Givenchy men’s presentation during the week, and the collection was a beautiful extension of what she has done on the women’s side, with exquisite tailoring and eveningwear, rich floral embroideries and refined streetwear, including a pink leather tracksuit like the red one sported by Timothée Chalamet last year when he was promoting “Marty Supreme.”

Chalamet wore Givenchy several times during awards season, when he made Burton’s double-breasted tailoring his own. Perhaps he even had an influence on the designer. “I wanted this to feel very personal and intimate, and to reflect the conversations that I have with the friends of the house,” she wrote in the collection notes. Could an official partnership be next?

Couture stars Angelina Jolie as an American filmmaker facing an unexpected health struggle amidst the swirl of Paris Fashion Week. Source: Vertical
“Couture” stars Angelina Jolie as an American filmmaker facing an unexpected health struggle amidst the swirl of Paris Fashion Week. Source: Vertical

Paris Fashion Week From Another Angle

While Men’s Fashion Week was unspooling in Paris, Angelina Jolie’s new film “Couture,” which uses Paris Fashion Week as a backdrop, opened in theaters in the U.S.

I went to see the film, which tells personal stories of those behind the scenes who do not usually have a voice, and chips away at some of the glamour of the shows in a way that was familiar to me.

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Maxine (Jolie) is at the center of the story, an American director hired to create a short film for a runway presentation. After landing in Paris, she becomes immersed in the pre-show prep at a fashion house, only to receive a phone call delivering the devastating news that she has breast cancer and needs surgery right away, a medical diagnosis that mirrors Jolie’s own personal story.

As someone who spent years going to runway shows, the plot point brings home the disconnect between fantasy and reality that happens during fashion week, particularly when it comes to one’s personal life. It’s easy to feel like you are living in runway la-la land where nothing can touch you during the month of traveling to these fabulous shows twice a year.

A seamstress (Garance Marillier) works on a dress in Couture . Source: Vertical
A seamstress (Garance Marillier) works on a dress in “Couture.” Source: Vertical

The film also follows model Ada (played by real-life model Anyier Anei), a South Sudanese fresh face navigating her first fashion week in Paris, working to make money to send home to her family in Kenya to help lift them out of poverty.

Her journey (partly inspired by Anei’s own) has her palling around with other models too young to know better, staying up late drinking champagne, and disastrously twisting her ankle while practicing her walk ahead of her big runway debut. It is an illuminating look into the lives of the pretty faces who are so often expressionless and dehumanized on the runway.

A third character, makeup artist Angèle (Ella Rumpf), is the least developed. She is an aspiring writer (honestly, her job prospects would be better sticking with makeup design), lugging her kit from gig to gig around Paris, crossing paths with Maxine and Ada in scenes that are somewhat hollow. But somehow, this rings true, too. Brief, surface encounters are the way one experiences fashion week.

There is a lot of pain as Ada walks the runway with a swollen ankle, and Jolie struggles to put on a brave face as she goes between hospital appointments and the film shoot. But in the end, there is beauty under pressure, which is what fashion week is all about.

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Makeup artist Angèle (Ella Rumpf) and model Ada (Anyier Anei) backstage at a runway show in the film Couture. Source: Vertical
Makeup artist Angèle (Ella Rumpf) and model Ada (Anyier Anei) backstage at a runway show in the film “Couture.” Source: Vertical
Tiffany ambassador Zendaya wearing Tiffany Elsa Peretti snake earrings. Source: Tiffany & Co.
Tiffany ambassador Zendaya wearing Tiffany Elsa Peretti snake earrings. Source: Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co. is shining again on the SoCal retail scene at South Coast Plaza with the opening of a new 15,000-square-foot store designed by architect Peter Marino.

The new location reintroduces the LVMH-owned jeweler to Southern California, where it has invested heavily in celebrity ambassadors including Zendaya, Anya Taylor-Joy, Greta Lee and Chase Sui Wonders, and will open a new Rodeo Drive flagship in 2028 on the site of the former Luxe Hotel.

The South Coast Plaza space showcases the design concept first introduced at the Landmark store on New York’s Fifth Avenue, which opened with much fanfare in 2023. It will also feature an upcoming Tiffany Blue Box Café helmed by chef Daniel Boulud.

Tiffany & Co. South Coast Plaza. Source: Tiffany & Co.
Tiffany & Co. South Coast Plaza. Source: Tiffany & Co.

Marino’s concept brings the coast inside, with digital screens by artist Oyoram projecting sweeping views inspired by Newport and Laguna Beach.

Tiffany archival pieces with ties to the region are on display, including a specimen of morganite from Mesa Grande, Calif., on loan from a private collection, and others featuring kunzite, a gemstone first identified in California.

The space is also filled with contemporary art, including “Tiffany Miraculous,” “Tiffany Smashing,” “Tiffany Adorable” and “Tiffany Dish” by Damien Hirst near the entrance, as well as works by Urs Fischer, Michelangelo Pistoletto and Vik Muniz.

In addition to high jewelry and megadiamonds, the store showcases the HardWear, Bird on a Rock, Knot, Sixteen Stone and T by Tiffany collections.

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Tiffany & Co., 3333 Bristol St., Suite 1509, Costa Mesa, Calif.

Tiffany & Co. South Coast Plaza. Source: Tiffany & Co.
Tiffany & Co. South Coast Plaza. Source: Tiffany & Co.

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San Francisco, CA

Lettuce | SF Jazz | Music in San Francisco

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Lettuce | SF Jazz | Music in San Francisco


A run of late-summer performances brings Lettuce to SFJAZZ, where the Boston-born sextet continues touring its latest album Cook inside Miner Auditorium. Known for expanding from Berklee students into a tightly synchronized funk collective, the band threads together psychedelic grooves, brass-led arrangements, and extended improvisational passages that often stretch their sets into long-form explorations rather than fixed song cycles. Each performance draws on decades of collaboration and individual side work across jazz, pop, and hip-hop, giving the music a layered, studio-to-stage fluidity that rarely settles into repetition. The SFJAZZ setting frames that approach with concert-hall clarity, allowing rhythm sections and horn interplay to unfold with precision even at peak intensity. Across the run, the focus stays on sustained groove and ensemble chemistry, where variation emerges gradually through solos and shifting textures rather than abrupt changes in direction.



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San Francisco, CA

1 dead, 1 injured in Bay Point shooting; suspect sought

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1 dead, 1 injured in Bay Point shooting; suspect sought



A man was being sought as the suspect in a double shooting in Bay Point that left one person dead and another injured early Friday morning.

The Contra Costa County Sheriff’s Office said deputies were dispatched at about 1:30 a.m. to an unknown problem on Olivia Lane, just east of Alves Lane and south of Delta de Anza Regional Trail, which later was reported to be “shots fired.”

While arriving at the scene, deputies were flagged down by several people who were injured at the location, the Sheriff’s Office said. Deputies found one person who was unresponsive and he was taken to a hospital. The victim was later pronounced dead at the hospital, the office said.

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A second person was taken to the hospital; the victim’s condition was not disclosed. The victim who died has not yet been identified. 

Avery Alexander Gibbs

Contra Costa County Sheriff’s Office


Sheriff’s detectives identified the suspect as 35-year-old Avery Alexander Gibbs, described by the Sheriff’s Office as a transient. Gibbs was still at large as of Friday afternoon

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The Sheriff’s Office said Gibbs should not be approached, and anyone seeing him should call 9-1-1. People with information on the shooting were asked to contact Sheriff’s Office investigators at (925) 313-2600 dispatcher at (925) 646-2441. 



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